Three Years, Three Michelin Stars

2009 was my third consecutive year as a chef in the great country of Spain... and the third consecutive year I've been touched by Michelin.

On Sunday 9th September 2007 I announced my choice of restaurant in which to start my professional training in Catalunya. Seven weeks later, on Thursday 22nd November 2007, I was thrilled when that restaurant - Comerç 24 - won its first Michelin star. Thrilled for two reasons. Firstly because when the team of which you are a part wins one of the highest accolades that can be awarded to your profession you are inevitably delighted. Secondly because a few months earlier I'd sat in London researching hundreds of restaurants in Barcelona and, of all of them, I'd chosen Comerç 24 as the one most deserving of award. It gave me enormous confidence in my judgment when, having read the menus and looked at photographs of the food but never tasted it, my mental palate rang bells. "The three factors that drove me to apply to Comerç 24", I wrote on this blog, "were the food, the food and oh... the food."

Nine months later I read about a place in Barcelona being named amongst the six best eateries in Spain by El País and listed by Condé Nast Traveller as amongst the world's 80 best new restaurants. These comments could have been so much hot air, but I simply had to go and see for myself.

On Tuesday 19th August 2008 I wrote of Cinc Sentits: "If you chose to go down the route of simplicity, you have to justify that by using the best ingredients and preparing them with perfect execution. Cinc Sentits does all that and a great deal more. I know where I want to work next..." Three months later I sat down with my father to enjoy another fabulous meal at Cinc Sentits. Imagine my unbridled delight when the following morning, Thursday 20th November, I discovered that Jordi, Amèlia, Roser and their staff had been awarded a highly-deserved first Michelin star. In my congratulatory post I explained that I'd been discussing a job at Cinc Sentits for some time. I'd wanted to work there ever since my first experience of the food and I'd come very close to joining Jordi's kitchen team. I can't claim to have contributed in any way to the accolade, but I'm so pleased with my gastronomic judgment.

So that brings me to 2009. In recent years the Michelin awards for Spain & Portugal have been embargoed for publication on the third Thursday of November. But this year the announcement was put back a week to yesterday, when it was made in Madrid's San Miguel market at a Michelin gala celebration of the centenary of the guide publication in Spain. And today the news is out across the web.

How I would love to be telling you that Restaurante Ferrero had just won its first star. But, alas, it was not to be. Based on my experience of eating in Michelin-starred restaurants and working with experienced chefs from around the world, I'm convinced that our kitchen team at Ferrero have been producing food not just at 1* level but at a 2* level of precision and consistency of execution. But I suppose there are many other considerations to be taken into account. And at the end of the day it's not my opinion that counts, but that of the Michelin inspectors and their masters. Sadly, they've decided not to recognise Paco Morales and Restaurante Ferrero with an honour this year.

Like everyone who worked at Ferrero since it reopened in April, I'm bitterly disappointed. I'd already given notice to finish my contract last week, hoping very much that my departure would be shortly followed by the news that every member of our kitchen team had been hoping for. As they strive for recognition in the coming year, I shan't be part of that team. But I'll bet my worldly fortune that my friends at Ferrero will achieve their first star in a year or two. The food is simply too good to ignore.

So if Head Chef Paco Morales didn't win an accolade from The Fat Man this week, how come I've entitled this post "Three Years, Three Michelin Stars"? Well, Restaurante Ferrero isn't the only place I worked during the 2009 Michelin season. From January to March this year I spent an excellent period on stage at Martín Berasategui's Lasarte at Hotel Condes de Barcelona. And today I'm over the moon to share the news that Head Chef Antonio Sáez and his kitchen team have been rewarded with their second Michelin star. Once again I can't claim much of a contribution, but it fills me with pride to have been just a tiny part of that success.

One final ironic note. I reported last Sunday that I was considering restaurants in Galicia and Madrid for my next step. Today one of those restaurants was also honoured by Michelin. I must just be star-struck! And one note of slight embarrassment. This evening I must also add my congratulations to the team at Restaurante Julio in the tiny settlement of Fontanar dels Alforins, less than 15km from my former home in Banyeres de Mariola. Well done on your first star. I'm sorry I never got round to experiencing your food, but I'll definitely make a point of visiting next time I'm back to see my old friends.

This year's awards for Spain are as follows...

2* to 3*:	El Celler de Can Roca (Girona, Catalunya: Joan Roca)
1* to 2*:	Casa Marcial (Arriondas, Asturias: Nacho Manzano); Lasarte at Hotel Condes de Barcelona (Barcelona, Catalunya: Antonio Sáez); La Terraza del Casino at Casino de Madrid (Madrid: Paco Roncero); Les Cols (Olot, Catalunya: Fina Puigdevall)
New 1*:	Asador Etxebarri (Axpe-Marzana, Euskadi: Victor Arguinzoniz); Enoteca at Hotel Arts Barcelona (Barcelona, Catalunya: Paco Perez), A Estación (Cambre, Galicia: Beatriz Sotelo), M.B. at Abama Golf & Spa Resort (Guía de Isora, Tenerife, Islas Canarias: Paolo Casagrande), Bo.Tic (Corça, Catalunya: Albert Sastregener), Casa Julio (Fontanar dels Alforins, València: José Luis Ungidos), La Fonda Xesc (Gombrèn, Catalunya: Francesc Rovira), Cocinandos (León, Castile and León: Yolanda León García & Juanjo Pérez Robredo), As Garzas (Malpica, Galicia: Caco Agrasar), La Cabaña de la Finca Buenavista (El Palmar, Murcia: Pablo González-Conejero), Alejandro (Roquetas del Mar, Andalucía: Alejandro Sánchez), El Torreó de L'India at Hotel Villa Retiroin (Xerta, Catalunya: Francesc López), La Broche (Madrid: Ángel Palacios), DiverXO (Madrid: David Muñoz), Kabuki Wellington at Hotel Wellington (Madrid: Ricardo Sanz) and Ramón Freixa Madrid (Madrid: Ramón Freixa).
2* to 1*:	Tristán, (Portals Nous, Mallorca, Balearics)
Lost 1*:	Kursaal (Donostia-San Sebastián, Euskadi); Gallery Art & Food (Gijón, Asturias); Lillas Pastia (Huesca, Aragon); El Chaflán (Madrid); Solar de Puebla (Santa Cruz de Bezana, Cantabria), Read's Hotel (Santa María del Camí, Mallorca, Balearics), La Taberna de Rotilio (Sanxenxo, Galicia); Alejandro del Toro (València).

Postscript: Along with so many other chefs and gourmets, I'm absolutely delighted to see the Roca brothers win their third star. One year ago next week, just after they failed to achieve this ultimate accolade, I was privileged to eat with them. It was (and remains to this day) the most sublime dining experience of my life. I said at that time that they would surely receive the recognition they so deserve this year and today, along with many others worldwide, I'm so pleased to be proved right.

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Moving On

I first encountered these imposing gates on Friday 17th April 2009. At 9.30pm I took my seat in the Restaurante Ferrero and began a three-hour Menú Innovación feast. The following morning I returned to the hotel with my knife roll under my arm and began the two-day trial stage that led to my subsequent appointment as Pastry Chef in this amazing kitchen. Now, seven months later, it's time to move on.

I can't overstate just how much I learnt during my period under the tutelage of Francisco 'Paco' Morales. The steadfast respect for ingredients and unwavering focus on precision of execution that I experienced at Ferrero will stand me in great stead when I come to work in a 2- or 3-star kitchen. And my experience in pastry - especially in understanding the importance of perfect textures - will be invaluable one day when I take on a senior role requiring me to manage and develop my own team. A few days ago, Hotel Ferrero was honoured with membership of Relais & Châteaux. I hope the restaurant will shortly be honoured by The Fat Man and make the timing of my leaving perfect. The team certainly deserves it.

But Hotel Ferrero isn't all that I'll miss in the coming months. The local towns of Bocairent, Ontinyent, Villena and Alcoy all offer their own individual attractions, but the settlement of Banyeres de Mariola, infamous for not having a single street of level gradient, has become a much-loved home. I'll really miss the place. I'll miss my flatmates, co-workers and drinking companions past and present - Alén, Moreno, Rafael, Luís, Eduard, Jon, Leonel, Josue, Manel, Mariona, Carmina and Angeles. Some of you I'll meet again professionally one day, I'm sure. As for everyone else - Facebook will keep us in touch.

I'm currently engaged in the job application process for my next move so I can't reveal anything yet, but restaurants in Madrid and Galicia are strong contenders. Meanwhile I'm heading back to Barcelona to visit friends in a week or so and then planning a break in the UK before I start the next job.

It's a bit early to be writing about my Christmas presents, but this year Santa Claus is coming early to relieve me of a persistent pain. Ever since I've been in Spain I've had intermittent problems with internet access, PC functioning and phone network access. This new mobile should help me to address all of these problems. With built-in WIFI, it means I'll be able to send messages, check emails and post to my blog while on the move. About time this modern lad got some modern technology!

Regular readers will know that, for contractual reasons, I've not been able to write much about my work recently. And with little spare time and IT problems, it's not been the best of times for my blogging.

Now that I'm between contracts that should change and hopefully I won't be subject to such tough publishing restrictions in my next job. So I expect to be able to post more frequently and with more relevance. Something I'll definitely post soon is the write-up of a very special dinner. I managed to get time off recently to celebrate my mum's birthday and my own birthday two days later with an extraordinary and extravagant feast. I've photoshopped out the chef's name from his jacket. See if you can recognise him and identify the establishment. I'll give you a clue - the restaurant changed name a few days before we ate there.

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Relais & Châteaux

Anyone who spends any time researching hotels and restaurants will be familiar with Relais & Châteaux.

Established in France in 1954, Relais & Châteaux is a global association of outstanding establishments with a truly unique character. It is a family of independent hoteliers and top chefs from all over the world who share a passion for and commitment to the very highest levels of customer experience. In other words, Relais & Châteaux is a club for the very best of the best when it comes to hotels and restaurants. The group is known for its extremely strict admission standards. In addition to luxurious facilities, members must have special features that distinguish them from chain hotels. Most are historic landmarks such as castles, manor houses, or townhouses in idyllic settings and offering exquisite cuisine. Prospective and current members are evaluated by the group's traditional "Five C" motto: Character, Courtesy, Calm, Charm and Cuisine.

Very few make it into the exclusive group of Relais & Châteaux. In 2009 there were just 475 members in 55 countries. In the UK they included The Fat Duck, The Waterside Inn, Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons, Gidleigh Park and Inverlochy Castle. Here in Spain, Akelaŕe, Arzak, Martín Berasategui, Can Fabes and Sant Pau are amongst the members shown on the map below. This week two new Spanish members were introduced to this exclusive club for 2010. One was the Hotel Palacio de Luces in Asturias. The other was a small, recently refurbished boutique establishment in the south-east of Spain. Click on the map to discover which hotel restaurant that was.

Yes, the second new Spanish member of Relais & Châteaux is Hotel Ferrero, home of the fine dining Restaurante Ferrero by Paco Morales and Rut Cotroneo. Equally pleasing from my standpoint was that the one establishment in Portugal to be granted Relais & Châteaux status this week was Joachim Koerper's Restaurant Eleven in Lisbon. Back in summer 2007 I applied to Eleven for my first stage after leaving college. Chef Koerper asked me to come to his new restaurant in Catalunya instead - and that began an adventure that resulted two years later in my becoming a chef de partie at Restaurante Ferrero. Now both Eleven and Ferrero are members of this very exclusive club. I guess I truly have a nose for the finest things in life.

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Getting Old!

I can't believe a whole year has passed since I posted this. It's a sure sign of approaching old age that I've grown out of publishing photos of my birthday presents. My parents flew over on Saturday and we've been celebrating my anniversary with a visit to the Sierra de Mariola national park and a trip to the seaside in Gandia. With luck we'll be spending some time with friends in the Murcian seaport of Águilas. Oh yes. And we'll be enjoying a few very good meals...

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Replacing Recipes With Ratios

I've been very remiss with my book reading recently, but last weekend I found time to read Ratio - the latest work by Michael Ruhlman. And what an amazing experience that turned out to be. Regular readers will know that I've never been very keen on recipes. As we develop as professional chefs, we learn cooking techniques and the skills of execution and apply these (and our palates) to the task in hand, without much reference to the written word. We come to see recipes as being for amateurs.

Pastry, however, tends to be viewed as an exception. As anyone who's ever baked anything will attest, even the smallest error in ingredient quantities can lead to disaster. Cookbooks and dish specs provide us with complex recipes, detailing the ingredients down to the nearest gram and leaving the poor cook or chef to scale everything up or down according to crockery size. Michael Ruhlman, in contrast, introduces us to the science of cooking with ratios. In so doing, he unchains us from the shackles of detailed recipes by explaining exactly how the basic elements of the patissier's trade - water, flour, butter, oil, milk, cream and eggs - actually work together when combined. "Change the ratio and bread dough becomes pasta dough, cakes become muffins become popovers become crepes", he explains with blinding simplicity.

The thought process advocated by Michael Ruhlman could and should be emancipating home cooks everywhere from the tiresome and boring exercise of recipe-following. Ruhlman explains that if you begin to understand the basic guidelines for following a ratio not a recipe, you're effectively opening up an infinite amount of new possibilities in your home kitchen. Think of it as algebra. Cake = butter + sugar creamed together + eggs added one by one + flour. Or... Cake = eggs + sugar foamed together + flour folded in gently + melted butter. Both of these methods use the same ingredients in the same quantities - but they produce different results. And what's the difference? The second method produces a lighter cake. Why? Because foaming the eggs and sugar together incorporates much more air into the preparation than creaming the butter and sugar together. In other words, understanding the basic scientific principles of what happens to ingredients depending on how we combine them, and in what order, can allow us to think for ourselves instead of being dictated to by a recipe.

This type of thinking really attracts me. Using one's own common sense first and foremost, then seeking guidance if necessary, is a liberating philosophy. One of the very first things I was taught at college was the ratio of basic vinaigrette - three parts oil to one part vinegar. Any other ingredients I chose to add were just an added bonus. I could take away the chopped chives and Dijon mustard and it would still be a vinaigrette. But if I remove the oil, it would certainly cease to be one. If I wanted to add lime juice for flavour, I'd probably reduce the amount of vinegar slightly, thereby breaking the 3:1 rule. Does that really matter? Of course not - it's called the simple application of common sense. Would I still have a vinaigrette at the end of the day? Of course.

Ruhlman goes on to explain the finer details of stock-making, thickening with rouxs, the art of the tricky but sublime mousseline, brines and similar pickling concoctions and hot and cold emulsified sauces including his own all-time favourite Béarnaise. He concludes by tackling everything you could possibly need to know about "the custard continuum", from the ratios required for the humble crème anglaise to even simpler ratios that result in the triumph of caramelisation that is butterscotch sauce.

What I enjoyed most about reading Ratio was the fact that, although I've read The Big Fat Duck Cookbook, A Day at El Bulli, Alinea and other recent iconic œuvres of the kitchen arts, I've never before felt that I was drawing as much inspiration and sprouting as many new ideas as while I navigated the pages of this book. I can only describe Ratio as an essential culinary bible. And that's coming from a self-confessed modernist, radical, technology-dependent boy. I read books first and foremost in order to learn from the ideas of others, but I also read for the inspiration that helps me come up with my own ideas. Michael Ruhlman's Ratio certainly gave me that kick-start. My brain has hardly stopped whirring ever since I closed the covers of this incredible book.

I often find that, based on one sentence I've just read, my mind can wander off for hours into a faraway land of brainstorming creativity. When that happens I pull my mobile phone out and start jotting down notes for as long as I can keep my concentration. It's not intricate spherifications and imaginative, post-modern elaborations that get my creative juices flowing. It's simple, straightforward basic open-ended concepts that allow my own brain to do the leg work. And believe me, my brain can run marathons when I let it. Ratio is full of such concepts, it's a book that is fuel for the creative mind in the purest form. If you think of the creative process as a tree, the best place to start from is the trunk, with a multiplicity branches heading outwards in all directions. That's exactly where Ratio is - at the central power station from which all ideas can grow.

Here's a perfect example of what I'm getting at. What is mayonnaise? Answer: an emulsion of fat and water - traditionally vegetable or olive oil and the water in egg yolks. The lecithin present in the yolks (and in the optional mustard) helps to stabilise the emulsion and the extra water content provided by vinegar or lemon juice enables more oil to be added in order to achieve the correct consistency. But forget about the technical details for a moment - let's just think fat and water. Now open your mind. Which other common culinary preparations are simply a combination of fat and water? What happens to cream when we whip it? What could be used as the fat content instead of oil in mayonnaise? And what could be used instead of vinegar or lemon juice as the water content?

How could the preparation be flavoured? Could we infuse the oil beforehand, use an aromatic oil or employ a combination of oils? What could be used to provide acidity if vinegar or lemon juice aren't utilised as providers of water content? What's a Hollandaise, if not a warm cousin of mayonnaise? All at once a whole new avenue of possibilities has opened up. Fats are generally liquid when warm, so that means loads of alternative fat-content possibilities that weren't possible in a cold mayonnaise. Rendered bacon fat whisked into warm, foamy yolks. Goose fat leftover from Sunday's roast. Foie fat... This book truly opened my mind to a new way of thinking - and one that I hope to continue following in the coming years as I develop as a chef. Ratio should be read by everyone from experienced professional chefs to rank amateur home cooks, because different people will take different ideas and principles from it to suit their own requirements. Moreover, it's as gripping as a Stephen King novel. I read it cover to cover in a few days and I could probably tackle it again right now and discover a world of ideas I'd overlooked the first time round. Mr Ruhlman - congratulations on a truly inspirational read. Thanks to Kristian Madsen for the oil and water photo and to Leonardo da Vinci for The Vitruvian Man.

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It's A Tough Life As A Professional Chef...

...so I thought I'd take time out and pay a snap visit to Portugal to visit some friends.

Well... a man's gotta have a break some time.

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